From the start Japan felt different from our first stop, Korea. Gone was the loud traffic, construction cranes, honking taxi drivers and selfie-sticks. The southern part of Japan ,where we started our tour, was full of tranquil beach towns, courteous drivers, and curious friendly locals, many on their usual August family vacation. We want to say here that we HIGHLY recommend not touring Japan in August, or if you do go north to Hokkaido. For our timeline it worked out that Japan was our second country to visit, less we wanted to hop and skip all over the contintent. But looking at pictures, talking to locals and just expereincing the heat and crowds that come along with the traditional holiday/family vacation season we encourage everyone to organize your tour in Spring or Fall (Just our 2-cents).
As far as the vibe I think we agree that Japan is nothing like its nearest neighbor, South Korea. The 30 year economic stagnation and the strong ties to and unquestioning faith in tradition make for a place that at times seems stuck in a period in the past. Other than Tokyo and parts of other cities like Osaka where nightlife, music and energy abound, the rest of Japan is quiet, with fewer young people, dying elders, disappearing villages and vacant homes that one gets the feeling may never again be inhabited. In both countries we had some interesting conversations about the future. What the decline in birth rate means for South Korea and Japan and what is being done to curb the potential deleterious effects of a population consisting of mostly elder folks supported by the meager number of younger nationals.
Things we loved about Japan:
-courteous drivers and well kept roads
-convenience stores with totally acceptable coffee, free wifi and no limit on loitering
-THE FOOD
-umami
-safety and politeness abounds
In fact, while we pedaled our way around Tokyo lazily making our way to Henada International for our early morning departure flight we talked at length about how we felt about Japan. After more than 4 weeks and 1600km we couldn't come up with much that was unpleasant except the heat/humidity and the cost. Of which the former is our own fault choosing to tour Japan at the hottest time of year and knowing it would be trying at times. The latter is a fact that is well known amongst most people coming to visit but it really hits home at the times you are trying to find a cheap place to spend the night and you are charged not per room or campsite, but per person using the shared space. Or when you go to buy a piece of fruit at the store and an apple costs $2.50 and a red pepper cost $1.50 and the result is you eating large quantities of rice and noodles to fill the gaping pit where your stomach once stood.
Japan, ultimately, treated us well excepting these small inconveniences. We, however, found ourselves slightly wanting for interpersonal interactions. Except a few gracious and warm hosts the people were so reserved and stoic that the rare moments of levity and lightness felt almost out of place. Japan abounds as a place of beauty, culture and history but when you are people that feed off the life energy of your host country it, at times leaves you feeling as though the wind has been pulled from you sails.
