The Sweet Spot

Reluctantly riding out of Taroko Gorge we were taking photos and slightly lamenting not trying to ride to the 3000m pass (the highest driveable rode in Asia) but knowing deep down that the misery of attempting this on a 20inch wheeled bike is almost certain torture.  We soon cheered knowing that the best of the best was immentently in front of us.  Hualien to Taitung is well know to be biking paradise.  A more than 200km section of roads that wind through hills, along coastline, in and out of villages and all with good bike lanes and drivers well aware that you, and thousands of other cyclists, are present.  

We rode through road with shrines for relatives who had passed.

  

On a bike-only trail on the coast.  Alas, there were ome stairs too.

The easy ride to Haulien was a pleasure.  We decided too treat ourselves to a hostel, hot shower and delicious night market food and the manageable sized and friendly city of Haulien was the best choice.  We checked-in, showered and went walking in search of the street food we have grown to love.  Nothing much happed in our time in Haulien.  Most tourists use this town as a base from which to visit Taroko and other surrounding sights but as we had just came out of the park and passed or will pass most of the aforementioned sights (a perk of cycle touring) we spent a large chunk of our time eating, reading, and sleeping.  Not able to be more content we did venture out at night to the wonderful Night Markets that are part of normal Taiwanese life.  The food is always cheap, fresh and unique and we love sampling the local delicacies.  

   

Eating a bunch of veg and stinky tofu, a Taiwanese delicacy that smells like your grandpa's socks but tastes pretty good.

   

A stall selling all kinds of skewers you can have bar-b-qued, Bruce in heaven with a pork-stuffed french toast, a milk tea, and a fruit-I-can't remember-the-name-of milk.

After two restful days we staarted south again and zig-zagged our way from one road to the other across the less formidable but still challenging coastal range mountains of Eastern Taiwan.  Avoiding the main roads whenever possible we chose the local village roads which were more rolling hills but with almost no motor vehicle traffic.  At the end of the day we landed at dark at another coastal park camping ground in a village diffficult to pronounce without a smirk and snicker- Shihtiping, that we read about in the Lonely Planet book.  Everything was great- covered platforms on which to set up your tent only meters from the picturesque shore, hot water showers, and only a few other campers with which to share the accomodations.   Unfortunately we found out in the morning that the price was 3X that quoted in the book.  Not a trip ending dilemma but still a shock and slightly bitter pill to swallow.  Still half the price or less of what it would cost in the States we decided to stay and rest another day as we found out that our friend (and warmshowers host, Spanish Aaron) from Japan was coming to do a short tour in Taiwan and wanted to meet up a bit south of our location so we needed to kill some time awaiting his arrival.  

  

Scenery on the way to Shihtipeng,

  

The view from the campground, the platform we camped on, and crater-like rocky beach down the road.

We ate at a local aboriginal food at a cafe run by a wild haired and slightly crazy-eyed native island woman and slept well listening to the sounds of the waves against the rocks on shore.   The next morning we stretched our bodies, something that was long overdue, while looking over the waves (the kind of staff that would make Rodney Yee jealous) and walked arround the little park playing in the tidal pools and enjoying the peace.  We tried to go eat at a local seafood restaurant that we read about in the very tiny village but in true Taiwanese fashion they we inexplicably closed at a normal eating time.  We have started to get used to this phenomenon in Taiwan.  It has similarities to places we have visited in Central America in the past, where 'Hours of Operation' are more of a rough outline of what 'might be' and not what should be expected.  

Hitting the road early the next morning we continued south toward our rendevous point of Dulan but not exactly in a straight line.  This time on coastal Hwy 11 and again crossing the coastal range inland.  We made great time and even had time to search out one of the locally famous destinations, the hot spring hotels where for a few bucks you get to soak and relax in a private hot spring fed tub.  Needless to say ut wasn't easy to get back on the bikes but we were close to a town where we would eat and spend the night.  Little did we know that this simple task would end up being quite so powerful.

Taroko Gorge

When I had read the Lonely Planet and started doing research about cycling through Taiwan, the Taroko Gorge came up again and again as an unbelievably beautiful national park, replete with high peaks, good camping, and touring granite walls.  We rode to the gorge in the waning light, almost giving up the idea of heading to the campground about eight miles beyond the entrance to the park, instead staying somewhere in the small tourist trap of a town that sits at the base of the park.  We had already spent the day gaining and losing elevation on windy roads with small shoulders and multiple narrow tunnels accompanied by innumerable trucks and large tour busses carrying the Chinese tourists that were the mainstay of Taiwan's east coast landscape.

  

Riding up to the Gorge, cliffs leading to the ocean on the other side.

  It had started to rain a bit before we had reached the entrance, which combined with the waning light caused us a bit of concern about getting to the camp.  We ended up riding through to the campground and when we arrived at our destination we were glad.  The campground was small, maybe 15 large platforms, each having a picninc table and a bbq area.  There were bathrooms with showers AND we were perched along a steep river valley in a serene part of the park, quiet and with water rushing down below and a waterfall within view.  All of this for NT $200, which is insanely cheap (about $6 USD).  Even though it was a Saturday the campground wasn't full, and the next morning all our neighbors packed up and left, leaving us the main area of the campground all to ourselves.  It blew Bruce and I away that such a lovely tranquil campground could be found in a major national park so cheap and all to our selves.

  

We spent the next few days riding further into the park, exploring some some of the trails, one of crept down a steep and partially washed out staircase along a stone wall of the gorge into natural hotsprings.  They were so beautiful, and blazing hot.  We were only able to dip our feet in for the first ten minutes or so but we eventually were able to sit and immerse our tired, road weary legs.  There was a flurry of older tourists in the pools with us.  Some agreed that the heat was unbearable but a few submerged themselves completely to the awe and cheers of fellow bathers.   It was impressive but it appeared that he might be a regular bather carrying with him a whole basket of provisions for the long periods he spends immersing his body in the cauldron of near boiling subterranean liquid.

   

    

Many people cycle from one end of the gorge to the other, on a winding, switch-backed roads topping out at a little over 3000 meters, or around 10,000 feet.  I had been considering this climb before we set out on this trip.  The largest climb Bruce and I had done to this point was Washington Pass in the North Cascades National Park, which tops out at 5,600 feet and I believe in the range of 27 road miles of climbing.  My mind flipped back and forth between wanting attempt the climb and feeling like it might be unrealistic.  Instead, we opted to ride about 1/3 of the road, but this allowed us to explore some of the trails, to keep our gear at the campground, cook delicious meals, and also feel like we could relax a bit.  Maybe I'll eventually be disappointed that we didn't do the whole climb, but I feel like we've already done some good climbing coupled with some slower, languid days that allow us to enjoy all that this amazing country has to offer.  As we ended our time in Taroko, I firmly believe that it is one of the most beautiful places that I have ever seen and and was an experience of a lifetime.

The Food, the Friends and the Father

On our way into the town of Yuli we came across another cycle tourer, a solo rider from Singapore who spoke almost perfect English and seemed interested in talking with other riders.  We told him our plans to get a meal and he started asking the locals where the local noodle shops were located.  This started what became a culinary tour of this litttle town- delicious noodles, a local dish they call 'meatball' but is more like meat inside chewy, gelatinous cover (very tasty),  shaved ice bowls with chopped fruit or sweet beans, fresh squeezed fruit juices and the malodorous but rather tasty 'stinky' tofu.  Stuffed to capacity (a rarity on a bike tour) and dark approaching we went to the local police to ask about camping or the like and were directed to the local catholic church.  Here we met the nicest and most welcoming French priest that offered us to sleep in an extra room out of the onsetting rains.  The next morning, Keith struck out at sunrise to head north and back to Taipei while we, in true 'Crack of Noon' style made coffee and slowly packed our things. 

     

With Keith eatiing dinner, desert, and at our fancy church digs.

As we were about to leave the Father came down and invited us to share morning prayer and breakfast that he serves to the local needy.  We met the most interesting group of people, literally of all shapes and sizes.  

We also met a young French man that was an intern of the priest that filled us in on the happenings.  Turned out the Father had been in Taiwan for many decades and had spent much of his time serving the desperately underserved indigenous peoples of Taiwan.  Many of the people milling about, he explained, were from various 'tribes' from the mountains of Taiwan and spoke totally unique languages aloong with Chinese.  The Father was able to communicate with most of them in their native tongues and seemed to know each personally.  We later come to find out that this priest is famous all throughout Taiwan and was given an award from the president for his work with the indigenous people.  After our food and a small chat about our journey we said our good-byes and the Father left in a truck on what was sure to be another long day of service to his 'Flock'.  It was redily apparent that this man's life and work were meaningful on a level that is hard to quantify and his presence,  even in our short time was impossible to ignore and not feeel blessed for having met this man.  Moved to tears and feeling reaally thankful for thier hospitality, Chiara and I rode away from this chance interaction and, as it seems to be in Taiwan, straight into another odd and wonderful experience.  

In front of the church with the father and his intern.

While making our way out of the town we "picked up" a young, local fellow cyclist.  He didn't speak more than 5 words of English but seemed  determined to ride wherever we were headed and communicate by whatever means necessary.  This led to a day of pantomiming, picture drawing and language lessons where we were given a tour of the local area- beautiful terraced rice fields, a delicious (and famous) Bento restaurant and hillside parks.   We rarely had had spent such day of superfulous activities.  It reminded us what the true purpose of our time was, not just a list of destinations, mileage counting and box ticking but a journey of human interactions, exploration of a people and their lives.  We are very greatful for meeting our new friend "Monkey" and will never forget him.

  

Bruce and I being arty and with our buddy Monkey.

Obviously not making it too far on this day we camped again in a mostly deserted campground at a welcome center.  Only one other family was there and with the help of their precocoius little boy we soon became friendly.   They gave us a delicious local dessert, pineapple filled 'Coffin Cakes' and we spent the morning watching their baseball phenom 4 year-old hitting pitch after pitch from his father well over his head.  We would not be too surprised to see this kids name on the back of a professional jersey in 15 years time.

Like so many people in Taiwan the family waas exceptionally warm and welcoming and even invited us to come and stay with them in Hulien where they lived.  Lamenting a bit that we had come from the direction already and would not be able to take them up on their offer we said our good-byes and hit the road south oone more time to meet our buddy in Dulan.