On our way into the town of Yuli we came across another cycle tourer, a solo rider from Singapore who spoke almost perfect English and seemed interested in talking with other riders. We told him our plans to get a meal and he started asking the locals where the local noodle shops were located. This started what became a culinary tour of this litttle town- delicious noodles, a local dish they call 'meatball' but is more like meat inside chewy, gelatinous cover (very tasty), shaved ice bowls with chopped fruit or sweet beans, fresh squeezed fruit juices and the malodorous but rather tasty 'stinky' tofu. Stuffed to capacity (a rarity on a bike tour) and dark approaching we went to the local police to ask about camping or the like and were directed to the local catholic church. Here we met the nicest and most welcoming French priest that offered us to sleep in an extra room out of the onsetting rains. The next morning, Keith struck out at sunrise to head north and back to Taipei while we, in true 'Crack of Noon' style made coffee and slowly packed our things.
With Keith eatiing dinner, desert, and at our fancy church digs.
As we were about to leave the Father came down and invited us to share morning prayer and breakfast that he serves to the local needy. We met the most interesting group of people, literally of all shapes and sizes.
We also met a young French man that was an intern of the priest that filled us in on the happenings. Turned out the Father had been in Taiwan for many decades and had spent much of his time serving the desperately underserved indigenous peoples of Taiwan. Many of the people milling about, he explained, were from various 'tribes' from the mountains of Taiwan and spoke totally unique languages aloong with Chinese. The Father was able to communicate with most of them in their native tongues and seemed to know each personally. We later come to find out that this priest is famous all throughout Taiwan and was given an award from the president for his work with the indigenous people. After our food and a small chat about our journey we said our good-byes and the Father left in a truck on what was sure to be another long day of service to his 'Flock'. It was redily apparent that this man's life and work were meaningful on a level that is hard to quantify and his presence, even in our short time was impossible to ignore and not feeel blessed for having met this man. Moved to tears and feeling reaally thankful for thier hospitality, Chiara and I rode away from this chance interaction and, as it seems to be in Taiwan, straight into another odd and wonderful experience.
In front of the church with the father and his intern.
While making our way out of the town we "picked up" a young, local fellow cyclist. He didn't speak more than 5 words of English but seemed determined to ride wherever we were headed and communicate by whatever means necessary. This led to a day of pantomiming, picture drawing and language lessons where we were given a tour of the local area- beautiful terraced rice fields, a delicious (and famous) Bento restaurant and hillside parks. We rarely had had spent such day of superfulous activities. It reminded us what the true purpose of our time was, not just a list of destinations, mileage counting and box ticking but a journey of human interactions, exploration of a people and their lives. We are very greatful for meeting our new friend "Monkey" and will never forget him.
Bruce and I being arty and with our buddy Monkey.
Obviously not making it too far on this day we camped again in a mostly deserted campground at a welcome center. Only one other family was there and with the help of their precocoius little boy we soon became friendly. They gave us a delicious local dessert, pineapple filled 'Coffin Cakes' and we spent the morning watching their baseball phenom 4 year-old hitting pitch after pitch from his father well over his head. We would not be too surprised to see this kids name on the back of a professional jersey in 15 years time.
Like so many people in Taiwan the family waas exceptionally warm and welcoming and even invited us to come and stay with them in Hulien where they lived. Lamenting a bit that we had come from the direction already and would not be able to take them up on their offer we said our good-byes and hit the road south oone more time to meet our buddy in Dulan.
Now I want some noodles!
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