Written by Bruce:
So the weather has finaly broke and the km's are piling up...526k, one flat tire, and wonderful hospitality from our hosts. The last few days we have made some great new friends and enjoyed some wonderful weather. Temps have been in the 80-90 F range with moderate humidity. A few hills have posed early challenges to our green legs but all with "happy endings"...
Once we left our new friends Jack and Jay at Coco's Guest House...
we immediately faced a series of climbs culminating in a 600m summit and a quick rain shower to cleanse us of our sins.
We found a somewhat dilapidated but peaceful camp along our route where a lovely Korean couple bequeathed upon us a cold bottle of Hite (which we had been lamenting just prior not purchasing on our ride from town). Another early morning of K-pop listening, lycra clad local cyclists awoke us and we hit the trail again heading to Gumi and a warmshowers famiily host. On the way we came across the most germane attraction possible for us...the Sangju Bicycle Museum.
Old, one-of-a-kind, alternative materials, you name it and they probably had it on display at this tribute to the two wheeled iron horse.
The Hong family of Gumi treated us better than one could ever wish. Our first taste of Bibimbap (Chiara was mistakin about it earlier, that was a noodle dish that wasn't quite the same) a traditonal Korean dish, a mapfulof directions for the next few days riding, a hot shower, a comfy spot to sleep, and a history lesson on the great president Park Chung-Hee made for a fulfilling and re-energizing nights stay.
A little aside here for all you fellas out there thinking about traveling...bring yourselves along a little lady. They are irreplaceable when it comes to making your stay wth a host family easier and more fruitful. Chiara has been the belle of the ball as far as the women of Korea are concerned. Hugs, smiles, laughs and long goodbyes, gifts bestowed upon us in spades and endless queries of marriage have become the norm as we make our way south in this wonderfully gracous land. Not that yours truly isn't worthy of such accolades but I must admit...Chiara has made this journey so much more than just a bike tour.
We encountered a bit of trouble shaking off the comfort of our host, finding the first Tern bicycle dealer in Korea, and route finding (we are venturing off the established Korean cycling route on our own). This made for a late departure from Gumi and later arrival to our camp spot. As we are now departing from the well-marked and virtually care-free Four Rivers Trail system, to the bit more hectic "choose-your-own-adventure" way through Korea riding on roads wth small shoulders and construction traffic. It was a good early test that we feel we passed with flyng colors, making to our destination before dark. Urban camping has become a thing we are getting used to. Each town seems to be built along rivers, canals, streams, or a body of water. The resulting water front parks serve as a place for enjoyment for locals by day either walking, cycling, fishing or picnicking and by night become ideal locations to throw up our tent near the ubiiquitous publc toilets (the cleanest we have ever seen) and water fountains (seriously, there seems to be a public toilet every 12 feet...South Koreans surely do not want for bathrooms).
Gear note: Big Sky International Revolution 2P tent- Time and again now we have been impressed with the ease of set-up and spaciousness of this shelter. Its compact size and weight and its free standing external two pole construction make for the easiest and fastest "popping" of a shelter I have experienced. I can't say enough about how happy we are with this tent to this point.
And while we are on the topic of accommodations in Korea, Chiara and I discovered the "Love Motel" while searching for a place to lay our heads recently. Though Chiara is quickly picking up the symbols of the Korean language, we have been at a loss to discover why these motels, which can be rented by the hour or night, and have a bowl of complimentary profilactics at the counter, are denoted by what appears to be a steaming bowl of soup prior to the name on the huge signs overhead? These establishments are not always places of shame or reproach in Korea, as homes are often very small here, much smaller than what is considered acceptable in the US. Often couples must escape to one of these locales in order to have time alone...though I doubt there is not the occasional bit of infidelity with those practicing man's oldest profession. (Try to get you a photo of this soon)
Today was a short jaunt over a few hills to the beautifully historic and slghtly trendy town of Gyeongju. We are still discovering its significance in Korea's past. The ancient kingdom of Silla, which seems to have links to most of the greatest archeological discoveries, has a signficant mark in this region of the country with giant burial mounds, simiilar to the great pyramids, and temples strewn throughout the beautiful mountain countryside. We decided to splurge for two days on a traditional Korean guesthouse called a Hanok.
We will update you again in a few days as we make our way east to the coast and then south to Busan. Only a week or so more in Korea before we head to the land of the Rising Sun. Hope you are enjoying the ride as much as us.
Love,
Bruce and Chiara
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